TOKYO — Parts of Japan are warming to the consequences of climate change, with farmers on the nation’s northernmost island of Hokkaido now in a position to develop the favored Pinot Noir grape thanks to rising temperatures.
According to the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, the whole space of Pinot Noir vineyards on the island totaled 23.2 hectares in 2014, practically fourfold the realm of 5 years in the past. Meanwhile, the prefectural authorities stated that the variety of wineries within the yr jumped 70% over the identical interval to 35.
Newcomer
In mid-November, Hideki Kikuchi’s 24-hectare farm within the central Hokkaido city of Memuro was bursting with 500 Pinot Noir grapevines. Kikuchi, who has grown Chinese yam, burdock and different greens, started cultivating the wine grape in 2015.
In the previous, the 52-year-old farmer had caught by Japanese grape varieties, which had been higher suited to Hokkaido’s chilly climate than the extra temperate-loving Pinot Noir. Noting the rise in temperatures, he tried his first Pinot Noir seedlings in May this yr as a result of he needed to “grow a popular variety that has rich flavors,” he recalled.

Kikuchi feels that Hokkaido’s drastic seasonal temperature variations will enable him to “produce grapes with a high sugar content and strong flavors,” appropriate for making premium wines.
Taking it a step additional, he plans to construct a vineyard with different farmers in Memuro as early as 2019 to entice vacationers along with his personal wines created from Pinot Noir.
Warm welcome
According to Tomoyoshi Hirota, head of the cold-region climate change group on the Sapporo-based National Agriculture and Food Research Organization, or NARO, the best April-October temperature for cultivating Pinot Noir averages 14-16 C.
Because temperatures had been often beneath this till lately, farmers had little luck rising the grape. But for the reason that latter half of the Nineties, common temperatures from spring to fall in some areas have begun hitting the 14 C mark due to international warming, making for secure grape manufacturing.
Between 2010 and 2015, Memuro recorded a mean temperature of 14 C or greater on three events, in contrast to the previous six-year interval throughout which the common was surpassed solely as soon as.
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As Pinot Noir begins to flourish, individuals are starting to pay attention to the area’s wine. Hokkaido Wine, which makes use of Pinot Noir varietals grown within the city of Yoichi on the island’s west coast, was awarded a gold medal for its rose on the Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International Wine & Spirit Competition on Nov. 9.
Koji Saito, who has been rising the corporate’s grapes for about 25 years, stated that previously, the area’s chilly prevented Pinot Noir grapes from altering to the specified coloration. Warmer temperatures have modified all that, he defined.
French vineyard Domaine de Montille has additionally acknowledged the area’s potential. The 300-year previous vineyard from Bourgogne established a Japan unit in August, buying a 7-hectare plot of land within the metropolis of Hakodate, Hokkaido. It will begin planting grapes in spring 2019.
According to the vineyard, one of many components that attracted it to Hokkaido was the colder climate, which helps management pest insect ranges and therefore facilitates pesticide-free manufacturing.
Too sizzling
While climate change has prompted a rise within the sorts of fruit timber that may be grown in Hokkaido, hotter climate could spell hassle for growers additional south.
According to a NARO forecast, Hokkaido’s temperatures will enable apples to be grown by the 2060s, however agricultural manufacturing additional south will probably be adversely affected, spelling hazard to the nation’s well-liked mikan, a sort of orange that requires an annual common temperature of 15-18 C.

Hideki Kikuchi’s farm in Memuro, the place he planted his first Pinot Noir seedlings final spring.
Some growers have already skilled the damaging results of climate change, together with poor coloring on apples, in addition to improper spacing between the pulp of oranges and their pores and skin, which may hasten rot and smash taste.
However, Toshihiko Sugiura, who leads NARO’s orchard unit, thinks one answer is for farmers to find out how to “adapt to global warming by improving varieties and implementing [new] cultivation technologies.”
He added that “while taking advantage of the benefits of global warming, it is important for farmers, local governments and Japan’s agriculture cooperatives in the regions prone to negative impacts to work together and address issues as soon as possible.”